1865s Kaki Walking suit – Photoshoot

Even though the weather was gloomy on the day of the 1850s event, me and my sister took the opportunity to take some photos of her outfit. Inspirational Fashion plate

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1865s Kaki Walking suit (HSM 7/2017) Part 2 – accessorize

A dress does not make an outfit, and besides the skirt and jacket, my sister also needed some additional items
(part 1).
inspiration

I’ve made her basic undergarments earlier this spring:
 Huge elliptical hoop crinoline
mid 19th century corset

But one thing I hadn’t had the time for was a proper petticoat
(one that actually was wide enough to fit over the huge hoops).
So that’s where I begun.
Using 2,5 white cotton sheets from IKEA I cut and pleated a whole afternoon and evening, before I could call it a day and consider myself done.  

When the under-layers was done (I know, I know – She could easily have used her another petticoat, but this will have to do for now) it was time for the rest of the outfit.

On the same event 2 years ago, I made my sister a more basic version of this years outfit, so some of the pieces she needed was already waiting in the closet.  We re-used the shirt and swiss-waist she’d worn last time.
Added a longer silk-ribbon to the neck and that was that 🙂

Well, actually she still needed something on her head…

I’d warned her beforehand, that I might not have the time to come up with something new, but when I came upon this perfectly cheap straw-hat (IKEA, once again) a few days before the event, I knew I needed to give it a try.
I Started by picking almost the whole hat apart.

I only left a few cm on the crown, before I (with the fashion plate as a guide)started to pin the braid back in a different shape. It took me several hours and multitude of re-pinning and starting all over again before I finally had a shape that was good.

after a first try at hand-stitching, I decided that if it couldn’t be done by machine it was not meant to happen this time (since this was the night before the event).
Turns out, it worked like a charm.   It was a bit fiddly to turn the brim around inside my machine but with the right angle (and the use of free space ove r the table edge) the hat was stitched in no time.  
Once the base was done I started adding decoration, using the same braid as on the jacket & skirt. Note the braid stitched both to the upper and under sides of the brim.

The final touch was to add some flowers and I opted for a nice pop of color with a few of these plastic flowers.

The finished hat: 

Bonus pictures of my little helper, getting the hat to sitt exactly “right” on my mannequin head. 

And the whole outfit completed

1865s Kaki Walking suit (HSM 7/2017)

HSM 7/2017 – Fashion Plate

I knew from the start this challenge would be an easy one (or hard, depending on how you see it), cause I often use pictures and extant garment as my inspiration. The only trouble was to pick which one to make.

But since my sister needed a new 1860s outfit for an upcoming event and I already had this pic saved on my ” wish to make someday” list, The choice turned out easier then expected.
Fashion plate from 1862

Close-up on the outfit I planed to make.

I also looked at some extant garments for additional inspiration and style choices. Then I got to work.

Using two beige cotton sheets from IKEA.
I started by cutting the skirt and used the same method and calculations as my latest 1860s dress, stitching the skirt together. This time it went a lot faster, since I already had the measurements and the technique down.

Once it was stitched and hemmed (after quick fitting) I added a singel row of braid around the bottom. Even though my insoiration din’t have one, I really liked the way t looked, and how it connected with the decoration to be made on the jacket.   

Then it was time for the jacket.

After some quick research and studying of pattern-diagrams and extant jackets on the internet I drafted my own pattern from my usual modern templates.

Then I stitched it together, inserted the double sleeves, added lining and begun working on the trimming.

 I used the same furniture braid as on the skirt combined with a brown pom-pom trim also from my stash.
Even though they weren’t a perfect match color-wise the effect was really nice.

A quick pic of the just “finished” outfit on the floor. Now all that was needed was some pressing and the right accessories. 

The finished dress: 

Just the facts:

Challenge: Nr 7 2017 – Fashion plate
“Make an outfit inspired by a fashion plate […]”

What: A 1860s Walking ensamble – Skirt and Zouvare Jacket)

Pattern: None – I drafted my own based on pictures and pattern drafts from the time.

Fabric & Notions: 2 beige cotton sheets (150 x 200cm/each), thread, hook and eye for skirt closure, 6 m of tapestry braid and 2 m of pom-pom trim.

How historical accurate: So so – The look and the pattern are good, but the fabric is way to thin and should have been either a thin wool or a heavier cotton. Also it’s stretching it a bit time wise by saying they used sewing-machines at this time, so thats another “wrong”. Maybe 7/10

Time: About 10 hours. more  then half of which went into hemming and trimming by hand.

Cost: About 150-200 Sek (all trim was in my stash from a notions clear-out a few years ago)

First worn: On June 10 for “The day of the Big Crinolines”.

Final thoughts: I think it turned out pretty good. My sister looked like she had fun wearing it and the whole outfit came together really well.

 

1865s Teal Evening gown (HSM 5/2017) – Photoshoot

The week before the ball my sister came over to do the final fitting and to take some photos.

She is wearing her new green corset, orange cage crinoline, petticoat and 2 pieced gown. Accessorized with black gloves, black lace-fan, a black velvet bag, silver tiara and necklace. She is also wearing a chemise, stockings, bloomers and dancing shoes.

Photos: Elin Evaldsdotter

Bonus:
Video of the gown in motion (shaky mobile video – sorry)

1850-1860s Blouse/Waist – Inspiration

This summer I will attend at least one (may be as many as three) mid 19th century events, and I’ve been molding over what to wear.

I do have two dresses (green 1840s & pasiley 1850s) from this time period since before, but non which take in to account the (presumed) heat of a nice summer day.

Then I found the perfect solution: A nice cool Garbardi blouse!
(that’s what I thought before the great Isabella of “Isabellas project diary” pointed out my mistake in this great clarifying blog post)

So now I just call it a mid century blouse (or waist)

Here are a few examples I found:

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Garibaldi BlouseRed blouse.

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c2a4f8f1feac545ff90ec8c57e45e46cI adore this whole outfit.

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ad9bf71657ea925d834c20c22246671eSerious rushing.

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162b0a514d40881970d320045db7968aSubtle plaid

f7721379bd23f61c82dcfbe6065e9aceLove the color and pattern on this one.

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Victorian(ish) Picknic

A saturday in mid july me and my sister dressed historic for a “Victorian Picknic”.
The weater was way to hot for anything other then bathing suits, but we did manadge to put together some pretty good outfits that we hoped would keep us from melting all togeter.

IMG_0335We arrived a bit late, and was suprised to se there was only a few other people dressed in somewhat historical outfits at the meeting point. And sad to say it wasn’t the spectacular event’s I’ve been used to lately.
The people attending was realy nice, though I think we all wished there had turned up a few more of us costume nerds.

IMG_0270I wore my 1850s crinoline, green 1840s skirt, 1890s shirtwaist and a new staw hat, I bought the day before on sale from the kids department.
I did feel quite good and comfortable despite the eclectical outfit.

IMG_0333My sister wore an even more “made up” outfit, in a red 1880s corset (which I haven’t posted about), my 1890s suffraget skirt, 1901s black swiss waist, a modern bolero and a masqurade top hat.
Strange as the combonation may be, I think she looked great. And judging from the cool poses she keept doing, I can only asume she feelt pretty good too.

IMG_0337A cool and somewhat more Goth interpritaion of Victorian fashion.

IMG_0339And a nice and cute  Baby Doll/Japanise (I’m not sure what this style is called) early 20th century dress.

IMG_0342Cute couple.

And a pretty regency gown, made by the wearer herself.IMG_0344The whole event was a bit underwelming, but it was quite nice to just walk around and chat in the park. But when the rain came we all feelt it was time to go home. I do hope there will be more of this kind of relaxed events in our town, and that more people find the time to attend.

And a group picture of all 8 of us.IMG_0348

And as usual me and my sister took som time to get some nice photos.

First up’s sis.
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Then it was mine turn.IMG_0295

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