1900s Lacy Shirtwaist

To have something to wear with my new plaid 1900s skirt, I wanted to make a new shirtwaist (I do love my old one but sometimes (ok, always) you want something new).

And in my stash I found this lovely pattern from “Wearing History” which I bought half a year ago when she had a Sale, and I’ve been dying to try it out.

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As the pattern comes as a “print at home” version, the first thing I needed to do was to cut and assemble the pieces. 20150913_114431_resized

Not sure what fabric to use, I searched through my stash and found the last piece of white striped cotton voile (from which I’ve previously made: A Chemise a la Rein, a 1900s pigeon front dress and a 1850s working woman’s shirt/waist), and a newly required of white cotton lace decorated in lovely flowers.
2013-05-29 17.38.05  Unfortunately I hadn’t enough lace to cover the whole shirt – I could either use it on the bodice and make short sleeves, or I could use it to make long/full sleeves and ad a bit of lace around the collar and shoulders.
After some thinking and experimenting with the pattern layout I decided to go with the full sleeves and then try to get as much of the upper bodice out of it as possible.IMG_8785

I realized pretty soon the lace was way to fragile and “open” for the garment I wanted to make. So I dug out some ivory chiffon from my stash and used it to back all the lacy pieces.IMG_8784
The result was perfect. The sleeves kept their lightness, while the see-thoroughness was dampened and strengthened all at the same time.

I stitched most of the blouse on machine, but all the work with the lace needed to be made by hand.

Unfortunately I’ve been really bad at taking pictures lately but besides from the fiddling to get the lace right, the construction is pretty simple.

Before finishing I did needed to make a decision about how to  end the lace on the bodice.
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I could either cut it to the neckline and trim it with lace edgings, or I could save as much as possible of the lace and trim the bottom edge across the back and bust.

In the end I opted for the later, thinking I could always go back and change it at a later date if I want to.

To get that nice pigeon “breast effect” I used bias-tape and a cotton cord to gather the waist.IMG_8862The inside of the blouse.

I made a combination of buttons, buttonholes and metal snaps for the back clouser. IMG_8860

The finished Blouse:
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IMG_8854The facts:

What: A 1905s shirtwaist

Pattern: “Wearing history” 1900s shirtwaist pattern

Fabric: 1 m of striped cotton voile, 0,5 m of cotton lace, 0,5 m of cotton lining for the bodice and 0,3 m of polyester chiffon for backing of the lace.

Notions: Thread, Buttonhole-thread, bias-tape, cotton cord, 10 cm plastic boning, 13 buttons, 7 snaps.

Time: 10-15 hours.

Cost: 400 Sek if everything been bought new, but since everything came from stash and most of the fabrics was leftovers I wouldn’t say even half.

Final thought: I loved working with this pattern, and I have only myself to blame for not making a mock-up since i had a bit trouble getting the collar to fit properly. And I maybe should have skipped out on adding the second layer cotton to the bodice – It may have looked a bit nicer and softer. I also may have to reset the sleeves without the pleats at the shoulders.
But all in all, I’m pretty pleased with the blouse.

Worn with the skirt:
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And a preview from the photoshoot:
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Inspiring notions

While rumoring through the shelves of the sewing notion store, I had so many ideas of fabulous outfits running through my head.
It was a real challenge to hold back and separate what I needed (aka. wanted) and what I really needed.

Here are a few of the things I ‘m hoping to create using my latest findings:

The 1,5 m of black lace should be enough to make either a lace cap or a pair of lace cuffs for my planed morning ensemble.
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Lots and lots of pearl (faux) buttons, which of some will be used on my Aprils HSM item – The Lady Mary striped dress.
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The withe pleated polyester ribbon is perfect for both the collar of a regency chemisett and a since 18-19 century cap.
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10 m or so of this black pleated trim will decorate a 1885s “natural form” dress (someday…)
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I will need lots of small metal buttons for my next medieval cotehardie.
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And the bigger ones will do nicely on a militariy inspired spencer.
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I will need lots of lace to make my planed 16th century (and 17th century) outfits this year.
I mean: cuffs, collars, really big collars, chemises, dresses, glows e.ct. all need it in abundance.
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Not the most thrilling item, but for a corded petticoat you need Lots of cord.
(On second thought I may just need to revisit the store once more before it closes to get some more).
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There are no end to the things you can decorate with velvet trim.
But for now I plan to use it later in the year for the “Brown” challenge
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I love the fun you can have decorating pieces with pompom ribbons. I’m thinking regency Pelisse or Spencer for the green one, and 1850s bolero and skirt for the blue.
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And lastly, 12m of golden lace will be perfect for my planes on exploring the 17th century this year.
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What would you make if you found the perfect trim?

A Pile of Notions

My favorite (and only) store for sewing notions have just declared bankruptcy.
They have been my go to store for ages, and even if they’r not the cheapest they are definable the most well stocked.

The most sad thing about it (apart from me not being able to shop there no more) is that they didn’t go bankrupt because of lack of costumers, but because the owner got arrested while traveling and shopping for more beautiful ribbons.

This week I (and every senior citizen who can hold a needle) lined up for the clearance sale.

And here are some of the thing I got…

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IMG_5361Cotton ribbons perfect for laces and cording

IMG_5362Cotton velvet in brown and midnight blue

IMG_536410 m of white and black pleated ribbon.

IMG_5368Many meters of lace

IMG_5370Pompon ribbon and more lace

IMG_5371Feather ribbon

IMG_5373Assorted colors of buttonhole thread

IMG_5374Belt buckles and butterfly patches

IMG_5376Buttons!

IMG_5378Inspiration overload….

18th century Lacy sleeve cuffs

For the HSF nr 19 – HSF-Inspiration (draw inspiration from any of your fellow HSFs items), I decided to make a pair of 18th century sleeve cuffs.

I found a 6 m long piece of lace in my stash, and decided to use it for this project. I originally had some much more delicate lace in mind for this project, but I couldn´t find any I liked in a reasonable enough price range.
So the white lace it is.

IMG_1670The only problem was, it was too white.

After some debating with myself, I decided to try to tea dye it.
And so I did.IMG_1669The salt´s for setting the color.

IMG_1671Cooking away on the stove. 

IMG_1675Rinsing the leftover color out.

When dry, the lace was in dire need of some ironing.IMG_1792

Then it was time to start on the cuffs.
I decided to use two different kinds of lace, using the middle one as extension on the second layer on the cuff.

IMG_3138So I stitched the edges of the pieces together, creating different sized circles of the lace.

then I gathered and pined the pieces together.IMG_3140But then I realised that once the extension lace was gathered into the bias tape, the cuffs would be too puffy.

So I decided to trim a piece of the longer lace to get a more modest gather to start with.IMG_3144The bottom piece are the one cut of.

Then I pinned the second layer to it.IMG_3152

And finished of with the bias-tape.
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And Finished:IMG_3245

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Just the facts:

Challenge: 19 – HSF Inspiration

What: 18th century lace cuffs.

Inspiration: Erin Lee´s 19th century lace cuffs.

Pattern: none, I just gathered and stitched.

Fabric: None.

Notions: a total of 3 m of cotton lace, 60 cm of bias-tape and thread.

How historical accurate: Not particularly. But I did take what I had at hand, and if that´s not period then I don’t know…
They are completely hand stitched, and hand dyed with natural material. Maybe 5/10.

Time: 4 hours including the dying.

Cost: 50 Sek (8 Usd)

First worn: I hope to wear them on an up-coming costume event this november.

 

A Box of Lace Heaven

I was planing on showing you my favoutite part of our new apartment today but decided this post was so much more important.

Today I picked up the most awsome pacage from the post office. – A box that I recently won biding on an on-line auction. And since I’m really terrible at that kind of biding I don’t do as much good deals as I would like.

But I had a good feeling on this one.

So I hurried home (determend to not get to disaponted if the containt didn’t live up to the expectations) and put it on my sewing table. IMG_4951

The package containd a shoe box full of all sorts of different pieces of lace. IMG_4954

Ok, so far so good. The auction had called for a box with about 50 asorted lace pieces of different lenghts.

But when I started going through it, I found lots of pieces I didn’t expected.

There was atleast 7 (!) lace collars of different shapes and sizes. IMG_4958

I mean, look at this awesome little collar – probably prevousley attatched to a little girls dress. IMG_4960

And this “peter-pan” collar with its double layers. IMG_4962

And this one is just darling.IMG_4963

I also found these two pieces – which I’m not sure what they are for. But I’m guessing the big one is a collar or fichu of some kind, it’s about 70cm long. And the little one could be a sleeve cuff (sadly I only found one in the box). IMG_4965

What do you think? Could it be a single cuff, It is the right size, or is it something else. IMG_4966

And don’t you just love the end of the bigger piece. IMG_4967

And then of course there was some regular lace in the box as well.

Here are a few of the wide widths. IMG_4970

And some of the one of lesser widths. IMG_4972The top one is starched, and feel almost like papper. And the one on the bottom says “1,5 m hand made lace” and “20 sek” (2Usd).

And what would a lace collection be without some colored speciments. IMG_4969

And since this box of magic seems to have belonged to a great horder/seamstress the wonders don’t stop there.

I got plenty more. IMG_4978

I guess I will decorate lots of  my costuming pieces with lace this spring.

What I payed for all this magic? – 45Sek (5Usd).