HSM 2017 – The rest of the year (Aug-Dec)

I always find it hard to plan a full year of sewing ni adwance, since so much can happen that will change your creative drift and interest.
So this year I only made plans for the first half of the “Historical sew Monthly“.

But as summer’s now upon us I think it is time to take a new look at the uppcoming challenges, and to try to figure out what I wan’t to create for the ending of this year.

August:
Ridiculous
Make something that was considered outrageous in its own time, or is just utterly ridiculous to modern eyes.

There are SOoo many things yuu could do here, like 1880s bustles, 1890s mutton-sleeves, 17th century trunkhose ore 1830s hairs (already done that:-).
But for this challenge I will try to finish my Robe a la Franchaise that I begunn in 2014.21b6904ef6a12a9a9d65e486ef558bfdIt’s not silly looking per se, but the panniers that it will go over are a bit cazy

September:
Seen Onscreen
Be inspired by period fashions as shown onscreen (film or TV), and recreate your favorite historical costume as a historically accurate period piece.

I’ve been wanting to make myself some more 17th century garb and now might be a good oppurtunity to get to it.
elizabeth-capell-countess-of-carnarvon-ca-1665-sir-peter-lely I’m thinking maybe a new 1860s bodice (since I already have a pattern)
Or maybe someting a bit more daring like a mantua (I’ve hears a lot of Swedes arte doing these now a days…)

October:
Out of Your Comfort Zone
Create a garment from a time period you haven’t done before, or that uses a new skill or technique that you’ve never tried before.

This one is hard, but I’ve been wanting to give menswear a fair try, so why not now. k4202drwI already have a Regency west cut and waiting, and if I can find the time I would love to also make a pair of breechers and a shirt.

November:
HSF Inspiration
Be inspired by something that has been made for the HSF over the years to make your own fabulous item.

 There are so many gorgeous and inpireing entrys to the HSF/HSM, that it would be almost inpossible to choose only one.
That I think I will approach this from the other angle – to decide the garment first, by going through my stash and then find the right inspiration from the comunity.

December:
Go Wild
You can interpret this challenge as an excuse to make something that incorporates animal print, or wild animals in some way, or to simply make something wild and over the top.

I also been craving an 15th century Burgundian gown for myself, and since those often are decorated with fur, it would be the perfect choise. spinning-women1

As you sure can guess, I’m planing a lot more costumes this year, 3 of which are already well on their way, that don’t fit into the scheduel that is the HSM.

What’s in Store… (pun intended)

Exiting things are happening with “Fashion through History” this year.

You might already have noticed some change in this sites appearance.
After 3 years of the same fonts and images I thought it was time to update a bit.
With pictures I’ve taken myself, which means I own the rights to – That’s A good thing 😉 

I also made myself a logo:
Noting fancy but it does the work.
Now I just have to learn how to watermark my images…

What you might not have noticed (or maybe you have), are the new blog adress (fashionthroughhistory.com)
That’s right, I’ve gone the distance and finally gotten rid of the “WordPress.com” ending.
Hopefully the transition will go smoothly and you don’t have to change anything in your saves/bookmarks ect.
(please let me know if you’r having trouble finding the blog).

But why all the changes/updates suddenly?

Here’s why:

After many years of dreaming, but being to much of a chicken to really get to it, I’d finally dicided to open my own costuming/sewing business!

Yay!
(Omg! what have I gotten myself into!!!!)

I will start in minimum scale with an online web-shop here on the blog (just added to the top-bar).

For the time being I will only sell my own “old” costumes (another pun), but I plan to expand soon to more solid stock items and brand new garments.
And maybe sometime in the future I’ll even take commissions :-).

Because of the business regulations here in Sweden, I will only be selling to people located in Sweden to start with.
If everything goes well, I hope in the future to be able to do businesses with people all over the world.

Something that won’t be changing though, is the continuously entering of new blog posts (loaded with pictures), the occasional book-review and lots and lots of (lovely) costumes.

Lastly I just want to say “Thank you”! to all of you who’s following me and encouraging me in my costuming adventure.  Now, go and shop 😉

Love
Åsa

2017 – Planing Ahead

As we go deeper into January 2017, its time to plan this years sewing.

Yay!

This year I did things a little differently then usual (where I just pic ALL the things), because having a small baby really eats away of your sewing time 😉
So, this year I picked All the things I want to sew..

…and then I removed half of them.
All costumes with lots of pieces/decorations/complicated (and time consuming) elements had to go. Sorry, Not sorry.

Then I took a hard and “realistic” (yeah right) look at what was manageable with approx 1-3 hours sewing a week (more, if I could use nap time at its fullest but that’s hardly likely).

Then I took a look at my stash (because after half a year of maternity leave you really need to cut back on the excesses, like fabrics) and added that account into the ekvation.

And lastly I run everything through the eyes of the “Historical sew monthly” and possible events to come, and tried my best to match everything up.

So, after lots of forth and back, here is what i plan to make during 2017:
(Presented through the HSM17 lineup)

 The Historical Sew Monthly 2017:
(January-July)

January:
Firsts & LastsCreate either the first item in a new ensemble, or one last piece to put the final fillip on an outfit.

8b05963d5ee97df4f28e42f9f5f09e09I begun the work on the apron on this fashion plate back in December and it will be both my first entry into 1810-20s (late Regency), and possibly the last piece of this ensemble I can finish this year (even though I would love to make the dress and bonnet as well).
And for the purpose of this challenge the apron will be the first item on this ensemble and the last ting to put on before leaving the home.

February:
Re-Make, Re-Use, Re-Fashion
Sew something that pays homage to the historical idea of re-using, re-making and re-fashioning.

For this one I have two dresses that I would love to re-make to a better fit and perhaps even a better design.

IMG_2031 This 1780s Robe needs to be fitted better over my “new” stays, and perhaps let out a tad in the sleeves.

IMG_0522This 1910s evening gown needs a nicer back closure, and I think it would look better with the draping a bit more stitched down and controlled.

March:
The Great Outdoors
Get out into the weather and dirt with an item for outdoor pursuits.

I’m not quite sure on what to make for this one yet, but I would love to make either a Regency Spencerempire2

Or this 1910s wrap cape.4208693c640de62d4b97f0ac6ec639fdBeautiful, Isn’t it?

Another thing I’m contemplating is to make a 18th century hair decoration to match the brown Robe Anglaise above. fbac9dca5d32b7a9e85ab39e839c26ea 650e2205c62d97b75a2e1ba7ad3e4a16
Something like these two mixed up

April:
Circles, Squares & Rectangles
Make a garment made entirely of squares, rectangles and circles.

1237560510215538790warszawianka_chiton_clothing-svg-hiOn this one I plan to keep it simple with a Greek Chiton or Peplos made from one/two big rectangles of fabric.

I might also get time to make the frilly 1820s bonnet from January’s fashion plate.

May:
Literature
– Make something inspired by literature.

Also not sure on this one.
I would love to make a new Edwardian evening gown (if some of my fabrics speaks to me)mode1910-2

Or a green Regency day dress (or maybe a Pelisse) out of a pretty cotton fabric I’ve been sitting on for a few years now.5880ee0d1aa5d43db828e03caa587e55

Or I might just take this opportunity to finish my Robe a la Franchaise (begun in 2014)
21b6904ef6a12a9a9d65e486ef558bfd

The literature reference won’t be hard to find on either of them.

June:
Metallics
make something in silver, gold, bronze, and copper, whether it be an actual metal, cloth of gold or silver, or lamé.

I was planing on making one of these 1-hour dresses from the 1920s in a lovely turquoise jewel toned fake silk, but now that I read the challenge description again I realize that won’t do.ladda-nedPerhaps I can add some sparkle or a nice piece of jewelry to go with the dress, to make it fit the challenge criteria better.

July:
Fashion Plate
Make an outfit inspired by a fashion plate, whether it is a direct replica, or a more toned down version that fits the resources and lifestyle of the character you are portraying.

Another Regency piece I’ve been coveting for a while is a greek inspired over robe like his one.eveningfulldresslabelleassembleeapril1811

For the rest of the year (Aug-Dec) I want to wait a bit to decide what to do, since life and priorities change depending on sewing time/up-coming events or new interests.

So the last 5 challenges will be decided later this spring/summer.

AugustRidiculous 

SeptemberSeen Onscreen

OctoberOut of Your Comfort Zone

NovemberHSF Inspiration

DecemberGo Wild

Here is however some of the things I’m thinking about

A new 17th century evening bodiceelizabeth-capell-countess-of-carnarvon-ca-1665-sir-peter-lely

A 15th century Burgundian gownspinning-women1

A sheer Regency gown to dress up/down depending on occasion. 28187ad2219cb5718f1b8e6e7609ab73

A man’s Regency waistcoatk4202drw

Of course I also plan to make lots of new baby clothes and perhaps one or two modern dresses/shirts for myself.

Lets see what I can get done 🙂

Announcing the Winner…

To celebrate another year of blogging and getting lots of new followers, I wanted to give someting back to you all (or at least one of you😉) by hosting a giveaway (ending September 7).

And after meticolus consideration, no I’m kidding, I just pulled one name out of a ball.

The winner are:

Gabriella Salvador

(Who also run the faboulus blog pourlavictoire – go check it out)

Congratulation to your new fan!*

IMG_0176

Thank you to all who participated.

Love

Åsa

*Gabriella – It would be great if you could email me your shipping adress (asasomnasodesign@hotmail.com), and I will make sure to post the fan first chance I get. 

Thank you! 😀

 

Guest blogger: The queen of Ekenäs Castle

As I mentioned in my previous post, this summer I got the chance to show some of my dresses at Ekenäs Castle where a friend of mine work.

Next up I was planing to tell you all a little about the castle itself when it it me – whom better to do that then the warden, Maria herself.
Maria Reuterhagens profilfoto

So here’s now my first guest post, By Maria Reuterhagen, the warden of Ekenäs castle.

***
IMG_9993The present Ekenäs castle was built in the 1630s.
There used to be a village where the castle is situated today, but the village was moved to make way for a castle, probably in the late 1300s or early 1400s. The first castle was probably built in the early 1400s and it existed until the late 1500s. No paintings or descriptions exist of the old castle so the shape and size of the old castle is unknown, but some vaults remain in the basement floor and the cellars.

IMG_9973

IMG_9978

IMG_9977The present castle has served as the home of several noble families in Sweden including Nattochdag, Sture, Banér and Klingspor families. The present owner of the castle and the estate is Wilhelm Bergengren, who made sure the very worn down castle he had inherited from his grandfather was renovated and can receive visitors once more.

IMG_9984The matron of the castle is Hönsagumman, translated “the chicken lady”.
She was an employee at the castle who saved the castle from being burnt down by Russians in 1719. She still looks after the castle and is one of our most beloved ghosts.

IMG_9986The dining room has been renovated in 1870/1880s style. The Swedish kings from Gustav Vasa to Carl Johan XIV can be seen on the walls.

IMG_9994One of the owners of Ekenäs castle, Gustav Banér, got decapitated in “the Linköping bloodbath” in the year 1600. In a civil war in Sweden in the late 1500s, Gustav Banér supported the king on the losing side, Sigismund. The new king, Karl IX, made sure he and tree other noblemen (plus a bailiff) were convicted and killed for treason. His son, Peder Banér, was the builder of the present castle.

IMG_0007The royal family’s of 16th/17th Sweden

IMG_9997
IMG_9995The only original pieces of furniture still existing in the castle can be found in the countess Klingspor’s parlor – also called the blue parlour.
The still bright colour in the wall paper is the result of presence of arsenic. The countess Klingspor comes back once every year on May 2nd to have a traditional Swedish fika – coffee and cookies. On that date, the bailiff has to make sure that the countess has real coffee and real cookies in her parlor. Otherwise she will be very angry and things will disappear from the parlour – which has happened if her fika has been forgotten or overlooked…

IMG_0003The yellow drawing room, renovated into Swedish equivalent to regency period-style.
With two paintings showing the castle with a lake next to it. The lake has existed but was removed around 1900 – according to one story as the result of a curse…

IMG_0021
Library with walls renovated in rokoko style, floors are from the 1880s.

IMG_0027
IMG_0028Guest rooms on the upper floor. Of course with arsenic in the wall paper.

IMG_0017(Not the room pictured)
The room of the white lady. The person who tries to sleep here never sleeps well. The white lady shows herself when somebody living at the castle is about to die.

IMG_0030Bed from the late 1600s.
If you pull out the sprints, it can be turned into a flat package and can be pulled up easily at another place or another castle. 1600s IKEA!

IMG_0033The basement where Nisse, the stable boy, was beaten and hidden behind a brick wall because he knew too much. He is supposed to be behind there still…

The kitchen was at first situated outside the castle since so many fires started in kitchens. This kitchen is from the later half of the 1800s. The iron stove made it possible to move the kitchen into the castle. There was a sink so you could get rid of used water, but the fresh water had to be carried inside. The castle still has very little electricity, no plumbing, no running water and no heating. It is possible to visit the castle from late April to mid-November.

IMG_9992 In action

The Castle is open for public guided tours during the summer season, the rest of the year, check website and/or contact the baili.
www.ekenasslott.se

Exhibition of costumes at Ekenäs Castle

Back in April a friend of mine (who just happens to be the tenant at a 17th century castle close by) asked if I would like to put some of my costumes on display.

Would I?
Of course 🙂

We discussed back and forth for a while which ones to choose.
Then the planes got put on hold both due to our massive workload and due to the upcoming birth of my child.

In end of June we resumed the planing, and decided a date for her to come and collect the outfits.

So the day before, I went down in the basement and located all the bits and pieces for the 4 chosen costumes.
Then I got to work mending and ironing everything to get them all to look their best.

IMG_9953It’s hard work ironing 4 m of train.

IMG_9956Collected outfits – sorted, ironed and ready to ship.

IMG_9955I also lend her my dress-forms.

The castle Ekenäs is a museum with several different styles of interior decoration (from 17th century until early 20th century), and we wanted the costumes to represent a wide variety of times/people. Or at least as much of a variety you can get with only 4-5 shown pieces.

Here are the ones we choose:

1880s evening gownIMG_5660

Displayed in the dining hall next to the old piano and beautiful set dining room table.IMG_9990

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1780s Flower Robe AnglaiseIMG_3585

Displayed in the living-roomIMG_0009

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1790s Gentlemans wool outfitIMG_1115-ok

Also displayed in the living-roomIMG_0010

1913s Walking-dressIMG_0614

Displayed in one of the bedroomsIMG_0015

IMG_0018

And 1880s underwearIMG_5851

Displayed in one of the master bedroomsIMG_0024

I went to visit the Castle the other day, and got to look at my costumes the way the other visitors did. It was quite fun to watch old ladies and children alike photograph and point at my dresses.
And I must say, they really added something to the room and their exhibitions.

Wedding with friends

A week ago my dear friend Linda, from high school got married to the man she’s been dating since before I knew her.

It was a lovely wedding, held outside at a beautiful location, on he most perfect of summer days. IMG_0037The bridal party approaching the guest and waiting groom.

13769600_10155062431904517_5713467184305011177_nMe, my fiance and child right before the ceremony. 
Photo: curtesy of my friend Isa Gillman

IMG_0070“You might now kiss the bride”

IMG_0057My friends Isa and Emma (with her newborn baby girl) from high school.

IMG_0060And our boys…

IMG_0118Charlie and dad both sported the bow-tie.

IMG_0083The little flower girl eagerly assisted with he pacifier. 

IMG_0098Lovely photo of a lovely bride.

IMG_0104The bridal waltz – look at that beautiful lace and beaded dress back.

IMG_0110

IMG_0116The bride and her ever growing son.

IMG_0076The location was so perfect for an outdoors summer wedding, with a 19th century mansion, a great yard and even a little pond and gazebo on the backyard – I might just need to get the owners number…

IMG_0137The wedding-dress in all its glittery, tulle glory.

IMG_0124All my girls together.

IMG_0130Me and the bride doing silly faces.

IMG_0142Pro camera-GroupSelfie (I’ts really hard actually, twisting your arm that way)

IMG_0145My two tired boys at the end of the day.

And my dress…

I did plan to make myself a new nursing-dress, (from the Regency round gown pattern) but ran out of time (due to a clinging, ever nursing newborn in my arms 24/7), and I decided to do the next best thing – order a dress online.

With only a week left to the wedding, I put all my eggs in one basket and ordered this pregnancy/nursing dress in Azure blue, just hopping that the color/size/style would fit me.jolene_seaside_3_redigeratAnd it did.20160723_225236_resizedI felt very pretty (and comfortable) in the colorful jersey dress. Phew.

Ponderings on a friday afternoon

This is an old post, written about 3 months ago, that I forgot to post. But I think it’s still important for me o went these thoughts out loud, so here we go.

A quick warning – this have nothing to do with sewing or anything like that, so if that’s why you’r here (which I guess it is) considered yourself warned.

***

Today after work, I dropped by the grocery store to pic up some items for dinner. When the person behind me in the check-out line stepped in way to close.
Have you ever had that feeling – someone’s just a tad bit to close for comfort, and once you move to fix it, they keep stepping after. It’s not like a conscious threat, just something they do without thinking.
– They invade your personal space.

This happens to me – a Lot.

480826931Way to crowded for my taste…

I read some wear that the scientists managed to pinpoint the exact inch of peoples “personal space”.
with some variations in different countries and cultures, they know exactly how far away we comfortably stand to a stranger or our dear friend (much closer) when interacting.
We are all hardwired to feel this line in between two people and to place ourselfs accordingly.

Well I guess some people just did’t get that memo…

Or rather, I think my “personal space” are somehow bigger then the average persons.

As a Swede, who’s basically known for standing orderly in line, without ever making eye-contact with other people, I often rage at myself for not speaking up, even when I’m literally pushed into a corner.

I’ve been “pushed” out of check-out lines, seats on busses and lovely spaces on the beach countless of times, and I never say anything out loud (though my body language shouldn’t be to hard to read, you’d think).

Last week one of my co-workers (totally oblivious of personal space) kept following me when I step by step backed away from him, since he was way to close (in my mind). It ended when I hit my back against the wall and literally dowe under his arm in panic, to get away from him.
And no, this have nothing to do with sexual harassment, flirting or something like that. We were discussing a work thing, and my skin just started crawling with panic, just because he didn’t realize he was “in my space”.

Not even then did I say something.

Afterwards I always ponder over what I should have said (because just standing still, holding my ground just don’t work when the panic rises inside).
– Excuse me, but I feel uncomfortable when you/people stand to close, can you back up a step please?
or
– Sorry, but you are standing to close for me to be comfortable, can you give me some more space?

It sounds like a simple thing to say/do but somehow I never dare to.
Perhaps I’m afraid of peoples reaction, should they feel insulted and say something like: “I never hurt a woman
in my life! Is’it because I’m a man?” or something like that.
Because, lets face it, girls/women often take the hint when you step away the first time, and if not, a raised eyebrow and a look will do the trick.


Susanna_and_the_Elders_(1610),_Artemisia_Gentileschi“Susanna and the Elders” (1610) by Artemisia Gentileschi
Ok, maybe this picture is a bit overkill, but sometimes you literally feel like this.

What do you think?
Does this ever happens to you, and what do you do then?

I think I’m just worried I will pass this on to my child, since it looks very much like insecurity and self-degradation compared to other people.
And I wish I will find the courage to speak up next time.

And don’t even get me started on my fear of the “Oh, lets pet that big baby bump of yours”, I feel might come now the weather are warmer and the jacket are thinner (and don’t closes anymore).
I hope I will give those people (often older ladies) a nice right hook… put again, I probably won’t 😦

My (everyday) pregnancy style

As we all know, being pregnant do some things to your body (and mind).
Things that makes your morning routine take some extra time, and I’m not talking about morning sickness or the constant trips to the toilet – I’m talking of the head scratching process of dressing.

In the beginning (at least for me, I know everyone have it differently) you just feel bloated, unattractive and with a greenish tint to your complexion. Though wearing your normal clothes still works, if only a bit snug, some people prefer to wear cute little dresses with a bow tied on top. This was not an option for me, since we decided to wait quite some time before announcing to anyone that I was expecting.
So usual clothes it was – Even though I didn’t choose the most figure hugging tops in my wardrobe, (and thanks to Swedish autumn and winter just around the corner I could easily hide in bulky knits and cosy sweatshirts.

I was lucky enough to be able to wear my winter jacket the whole winter (it was a close one though, had spring hesitated a week more I would have been forced to get another one).

When spring arrived and my belly started to show for real, I bought a pair of pregnancy pants from a known two lettered fashion store, and kept wearing my usual tops and shirts. Everything with enough stretch in them would work. I also frequently used a pair of soft lose pants tied under the bump.
After a while I needed to add a long tank-top beneath my regular tops as my expanding belly made them look shorter and shorter.IMG_9754Comfortable loose pants, slim dress worn as a top and white belt.
pregnant in: week 39*

IMG_20160510_133456_resizedThere is no way that sweater will close…
week 37

In May my belly was really growing fast and I could literally see the changes each morning. I got myself a new pair of maternity jeans (the old pair was quite worn out by this time), and even splurged on a pair of denim shorts. 20160509_081328_resized_1Summer style – also, notice the sensible walking shoes
week 36

I did attend a few parties during the spring, and in the beginning had some trouble finding a nice dress to wear.
I bought a lavender blue pregnancy dress in January for these occasions, but when time come to put it on, it never felt right. In stead I raided my own closet, and found several dresses that would work.2016-03-14_20.03.36_resizedThe maternity dress I never liked.  
I did wear it though – for my birthday celebration in week 39 – the day before delivery.
week 30

IMG_9766A printed A-line dress I wore to several parties and occasions both during and before pregnancy.
week 39

IMG_9771A green form fitting jersey dress, I’ve never had the courage to wear before, but with a bump this big I figured no one would notice my other “bumps” and “humps”…
week 39 (two days before delivery)

Although not as much as I initially planed, I did work out some during my pregnancy. And when it came to clothes for bicycling, power walks and weight lifting I just used my regular fitness clothes – Pants worn beneath the belly, long stretch tops and jackets/west worn open.
IMG_20160305_110924_resizedweek 27

image000002_resizedweek 38

In the end my favorite clothes during my pregnancy was a slim black dress, a long tank top and a printed kimono/caftan, all worn with a narrow belt beneath the bust – non of which was new or made for a pregnant body.
IMG_2196
Slim black dress accessorized with belt, huge jewelry and gold bag.
week 30

IMG_0109_resizedAt my “goodby-party” at work, wearing flowery kimono, tank top and shorts.
week 38

IMG_20160515_194543_resizedweek 37

*In Sweden we count pregnancy in 40 weeks (with 40 full weeks as the calculated day of birth, and full term at 38-42 weeks).
I had my baby at 39 weeks and 2 days.